Epic 10-day Itinerary to Nova Scotia, Canada!
Nova Scotia was not on the bucket list for us, but as we are leaving the state of Maine, we decided to hit the country of Canada. Nova Scotia is one of the thirteen provinces and territories of Canada. Nova Scotia is Latin for "New Scotland"! There are some things to know before you go to Nova Scotia!
Fuel will be more expensive compared to the USA. As of July 2022, it runs from about 190.0 to 198.0. This is equivalent to around $7.20 per gallon. (1 gallon = 3.76 liters).
Sales tax is about 15% of the total price, so your total may be a bit more than you expected.
You might be wondering why drivers in Nova Scotia always have their lights on. “Daytime running lights” are the law in Canada and cars are manufactured this way!
Carry some cash: Roadside fruit and vegetable stands use an honesty system where a tin, jar, or ice cream container is provided to accept payment, so bring some cash to support the local economy!
Bring insect repellent! The mosquitoes are bad and they ITCH!
Check for deer ticks, which can cause Lyme disease. Ticks can hide in all the crevices of your body: behind the ears and knees, even in your belly button! If you have a partner you are traveling with, do a tick check!
Roan made it to Nova Scotia!
There are several ways to get up to Canada from Maine, here are the main two ways that are probably the easiest!
From Bar Harbor, Maine, you are able to take the ferry, which is named, the CAT. It is more on the expensive side, but it will get you to the town of Yarmouth in about three hours. It will cost about $170, not including the border tax which is about US$10. You are also able to take your vehicle on board for an additional fee.
Or, you can go by land. The best road that can get you there is going on Highway 95 to Houlton, Maine. You will cross the Woodstock international border.
Customs will ask you specific questions. They will ask you if you have alcohol, marijuana, tobacco, and any fruits and plants on board. I have heard that some customs officers do search your vehicles so be aware. It took us about 10 minutes to get through the border. Make sure you have your passport!
Tip: be sure to download the app ‘arrive CAN’. You can import your passport details and your Covid vaccination card into the app so once they scan your passport all your information will come up! Super easy process. It will be easier for the officers as well!
catching a sunrise in Nova Scotia
Day 1 and 2
In order to get into Nova Scotia, we had to drive through the province of New Brunswick. Our first stop was St. John, NB.
We had a coffee at Catapult Coffee, try the toast with sturgeon spread.
We also stopped by St. John Market. The market was the main part of the city. It was the main city market dating back to the 1870s with vendors carrying local produce, meats, seafood & crafts. We got a quick bite to eat before heading back on the road.
About a 2-hour drive north and you will be at one of the well-known provincial parks in New Brunswick.
Hopewell Provincial Park
The Hopewell Rocks, also known as the Flowerpots Rocks. There are rock formations known as sea stacks caused by the constant erosion from the changing tides. The rock stands anywhere from 40 to 70 feet tall. One of the top things to see on the coast is the huge tidal change.
Once you walk in, there is a huge gift shop that you can walk through and a restaurant. There is an informational section about tidal changes.
We found a place to park our van for the night, about 15 minutes from the Hopewell Rock Provincial Park. It was free and there are plenty of campers and RVs that you won’t be alone around these free fully contained campsites.
On day 2, we went through the city of Moncton and into Nova Scotia!
Day 3
In order to travel cheaper and easier, we decided to become harvest hosts members. Harvest Host is an annual membership program that provides access to a network of multiple facilities/locations such as wineries, farms, breweries, museums, and many others. The only requirement is that you have to have a self-contained RV/vehicle. The company’s goal is to provide meaningful experiences for RVers and Hosts alike.
In Canada, they do use Harvest Host, however as this is a USA-based platform, you will not find that many options in Nova Scotia (there were about 10 options when we were traveling). In Canada, Terego is more well known for the RV community. If you are here for a couple of weeks and plan to use this platform, it is worth it. The annual fee is worth it in about 2 to 3 nights.
Our first stop in Nova Scotia was the town of Truro. We requested our first stay at Raging Crow Distillery through Harvest Hosts!
Located right outside of Truro, in North River, A small batch, hand-crafted distillery using locally sourced, all-natural ingredients! They have won quite a lot of awards as well! They have such an interesting list of liquor: dill pickle vodka, haksap gin, Cajun chocolate liqueur, and our favorite… spruce tip gin! The owner was very friendly and the staff is amazing!
Truro was a quick stop, not a ton of things to do but it is a noncoastal town so quite different from most well-known towns in Nova Scotia. If you want to see something other than water, stop by Truro.
Day 4
Going south from Truro our first stop is Wolfville.
On Day 4, We had a winery and brewery day. Wolfville is known for being the start of Nova Scotia’s wine country. The town was bustling with tourists and locals due to it being the summer season. We highly recommend stopping by Wolfville.
In Nova Scotia, sparkling wine is well known around the Wolfville/Annapolis Valley area. We visited some wineries and wanted to share some of the ones we enjoyed.
Luckett Winery
The views from this winery was amazing. We did a premium wine tasting (this includes 3 wines that are top of Luckett’s list).
We tried an Unfiltered White Wine, Red Wine, and Nova Scotia’s traditional sparkling wine. The sparkling wine was the best one from the tasting. The seating room opens at 11 am, but you can do a tasting at the merchandise area as soon as the winery opens, at 10 am.
Luckett Vineyards
Benjamin Bridge Winery
Our favorite winery. It lies right in the valley, and it has a great outdoor section with a bunch of tables as well as an indoor retail section with private winery tastings. We would recommend the Nova 7. The Nova 7 is coined “Nova Scotia’s iconic wine”.
Other wineries in the area that we got recommendations from the locals:
drinking wine at Benjamin Bridge Winery
Grand Pré Wines - oldest winery in the valley!
Gaspereau Vineyards - known for its outstanding Rieslings!
Church Brewing Company
A brewery that lies in an old church right in the town center of Wolfville. The tap list is consistent with the brewery’s name! Beer names such as the Bible School Dropout and the Church Blonde! The locals say that their chowder is one of the best in Nova Scotia!
Check out the stores around Wolfville! There is a great outdoor store, We’re Outside Outdoor Outfitters. The owner of this outdoor store helps with trail building around Wolfville and he has all the good recommendations around Nova Scotia!
Day 5
Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic Site
An hour and a half drive away will bring you to, Kejimkujik National Park. This is the only national park in Canada that is also known as a national historic site and its entirety. Kejimkujik is also known to have the darkest skies on the eastern seaboard. Lots of travelers come here for star watching during all seasons. Most visitors paddle or canoe the routes the Mi’kmaq have traveled for thousands of years.
There is about 35km of front country trails. Both cyclists and hikers are allowed on the trail! There is 80 km of backcountry trails that only allow hikers on the trails!
our campsite at Kejimkujik National Park
As you paddle among the islands around the lake you can see a bunch of granite boulders and pines. There are also guided activities while you are in the national park. They do petroglyphs tours, Mi’kmaq birch bark canoe building, various cultural experiences, and a guided dark sky experience! Fishing permits are also sold at the visitor center. They do have specific rules on catching certain types of fish, so make sure you read them and you get a fishing permit if you plan on fishing!
They are kept with nonelectrical and electrical campsites, group and backcountry campsites, cabins, yurts, and some other unique accommodations as well.
Who knows… you might encounter a coyote or a bear! Also, watch out for ticks!
For more information: parkscanada.gc.ca/Keji
Day 6
Mahone Bay and Lunenburg
About an hour east of Kejimkujik National Park, our next stop was Mahone bay and Lunenburg. Mahone bay was a must-stop for us, as Mahone Bay was easily the most picturesque town in Nova Scotia and is now earning a reputation for business startups in the area!
A walk on Main Street will get you to a beautiful small barn that is a really nice coffee shop.
The Barn Coffee & Social House is a specialty coffee house serving unique and traditional roasted coffee. This coffee shop was opened in 2017 with the mission of creating a comfortable and relaxing space for the busy. They also have a fantastic selection of pastries and croissants. The interior is absolutely beautiful - gives you old antique barn vibes!
The Barn
We also stopped by The Tea Brewery. This teahouse holds the largest selection in Atlantic Canada. Also has a curated selection of specialty foods from local companies across Canada. You can sample various teas from all over the world!
Lunenburg
We highly recommend stopping by this small fishing town. With a population of about 2,500 people, Lunenburg was also a must-stop for us. The economy in Lunenburg was traditionally based on the offshore fishery and today Lunenburg is the site of Canada's largest secondary fish-processing plant. We were also able to see the Bluenose II! The original Bluenose ship was launched from Lunenburg in 1921!
Food and drink recommendations:
Dory Mates Seafood Shop - started a full-time seasonal food establishment at Lightship Brewing under the name, Boathouse Bites by Dory Mates. Offering excellent seafood choices. We recommend the pound of mussels!
Ironworks Distillery
Located in the heart of Old Town Lunenburg, lies Ironworks Distillery. Winner of multiple international awards, you wouldn’t want to miss this gem. You can taste the vodka, whisky, brandy, rum, and various liquors.
Day 7
Halifax
About an hour and a half up north from Lunenburg, the capital of Nova Scotia, Halifax is here. The largest city in Nova Scotia, this is where we saw the most tourists. We were mostly stopping by this city for the food and drink scene here.
Parking is pretty easy to find around Halifax. We parked Roan (our van), right in the city center parking lot and it costs us $17 to park for the entire day (till 8 am the following day). Everything is pretty walkable around the city and van/RV life is pretty prevalent that your vehicle will be safe!
Things to see:
The Citadel - a star-shaped fort completed in the 1850s. right in the city center. A gathering place for all.
The Waterfront - we just walked through the waterfront as we were going to our vehicle, but great areas to sit around and relax and you also can do some watersports at the waterfront.
Food:
Obladee, a wine bar - a wine bar created by siblings Heather and Christian Rankin. Known for its exceptional wine list and food with genuine service by a skilled team. They host live jazz music on Wednesdays and Thursdays!
The Press Gang Restaurant and Oyster Bar - is located in the heart of downtown, in the oldest historic stone buildings. Known for its amazing oyster bar and world-class cocktails. Also, have live music every Friday and Saturday!
Drinks:
Alexander Keith’s Brewing Company
Compass Distillery - A cocktail bar and also a gorgeous Airbnb on the top floor. Located in the north end, it is worth a stop. In 2020, they won the best Canadian contemporary Gin at the World Gin Awards, and they also won in 2021 at the Canadian artisan spirits competition. In just under 5 years, The compass distillers have cultivated an impressive 73 medals.
Every season, they change their cocktail list so stop by for an intimate experience and a good drink!
Good Robot Brewing Company - Highly Recommend the Jalapeño Mexican Lager and the Rice Lager. They have a big outdoor patio, nice indoor seating, and the best crew!
After visiting Halifax for the day, we headed over to the Northumberland Shore area.
Day 8
Our first stop was New Glasgow, honestly just to rest at the Walmart parking lot. If you can't find a place to park, Walmart is your friend in Nova Scotia!
Antigonish! The town is known for being rich in Scottish culture. The town is very cute and will be worth a stop for travelers going up to Cape Breton.
Food and drink recommendations:
Spindrift Brewing Company (Oak Manor) - this brewery is one of the top five breweries we visited in Nova Scotia. All their beer was so good that we even brought some back to the states. They had a beer for everyone. just to give you some beers they had… they had a Light Lager, Lime Lager, Espresso Stout, Vanilla Stout, and a Honey Brown Lager.
Other places to visit in Antigonish:
Candid Brewing Company
The Grindhouse Café - serve smoothie bowls and light, healthy food.
Half Cocked Brewing - located about 10 minutes right out of the town center. Where all the locals are!
About 15 minutes outside of Antigonish, you can visit Steinhart Distillery. This distillery overlooks the Arisaig wharf. They are also the creators of the 9zero2 brewing company! They have a wonderful outdoor seating area with a food stand as well (which serves German food!)
Beer tasting in Antigonish! This was the Toller Lime Lager from Spindrift Brewing.
Day 9, 10 and 11
Cape Breton
Cape Breton Highlands National Park
This was the best area while traveling to Nova Scotia (in our opinion). It is a little harder to get to, but you are already in Nova Scotia! Cross the bridge and get to Cape Breton Island. The west side of the island is more well known due to more hiking and water activities in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. The famous Cabot Trail is a roadway encircling the island, passing forests and the coastline.
Cafe and bakery recommendations:
La Boulangerie Aucoin Bakery is located in Cheticamp, right off the Cabot Trail. They have been serving the best bakery items in the area for over 50 years! The lines get long here so prepare to have a short wait when you get there. We got pre-made sandwiches, carrot cake, a brownie, croissants, and an apple fritter. The locals say their bread is to die for! IT IS SO GOOD!
Periwinkle Café
Off the Cabot Trail, is a small cafe that also features independent artists’ artwork (more so pottery and jewelry). They serve an excellent cappuccino and have an assortment of different pastries and bakery items on the healthier side.
Cape Breton Highlands National Park
Cape Breton Highlands National Park is one of the largest protected wilderness areas in Nova Scotia. Deep river canyons cut into the National park making it very unique. One-third of the Cabot Trail runs through the national park along the coast and over the highlands.
In order to get into the park, you are required to use the park’s pass. It will be $8.50 (CAN) per person and will last you through 4 pm the next day.
Cape Breton Highlands National Park is the home of black bears, moose, and coyotes. Please be alert when driving and hiking.
We made our way clockwise around the national park. We would recommend the world famous Skyline Trail. It overlooks the gulf coast. Whales, eagles, moose, and bears are seen throughout this trail.
1.5-2.5 hrs/ 6.5 km (4 mi) return
2-3 hrs/ 8.2 km (5.1 mi) loop
290-405 m (950 -1330 ft)
The next day, we hiked the Franey Trail. It is a steep climb to panoramic views of Clyburn River Canyon and the Atlantic ocean.
2-3 hrs/ 7.4 km (4.6 mi) loop
95-430 m (310 - 1410 ft)
We haven’t done them (due to being out of time), but we also recommend Fishing Cove Trail and Mica Hill Trail.
As you drive on the Cabot Trail, there are various deep points and features that you can stop by and have a rest. It is well worth a visit.
Where we stayed: Hideaway Campground and Oyster Bar
The oyster bar at the campground is a must!
Other places that we recommend on Cape Breton:
Glenville
Glenora Inn & Distillery - Celtic music and single malt whisky.
Margaree
The Dancing Goat Café & Bakery - on the Cabot trail, delicious sweet treats, fresh bread, and sandwiches and soups. Don’t forget to try the Goat Cakes! (Oatcakes)
Baddeck
Highwheeler Cafe and Bakery
Very local, super friendly owner and staff! Serving freshly made bagel sandwiches, traditional breakfast, soups, and salads.
Big Spruce Brewing Company
This was our primary reason to stop by Baddeck. The outdoor seating at this brewery is amazing. From window rooms to outdoor picnic tables with plenty of shade. They even have a separate building for merchandise and beer to go! We met some of the sweetest locals at this brewery.
Sunrise on Cape Breton Island.
On the way back to the states we stopped for our last town in Nova Scotia…. Tatamagouche.
Day 12
Tatamagouche
The town was more lively than any other town we have been to in NS (other than Halifax). Plenty of cool shops and restaurants to stop by!
Food and drink recommendations:
Tatamagouche Brewing Company - family-owned and certified organic craft brewery in the city center. In 2014, they converted an old butcher shop into this beautiful taproom and brewery. They also have really good swag to take home with you!
Tatamagouche Ice Creamery - hand-crafted ice cream!! Who would say no?? Lines can get long, but it is definitely worth it. The kiddie scoop is pretty big and goes for $3.25. We got the tiramisu flavor! They have unique flavors such as maple, gingerbread, lemon, and candy cane!
Tatamagouche Railway Dining Car - a restaurant on a train!
The last couple of days in Canada was spent in New Brunswick and then we are headed south… to the southern state of North Carolina! Our trip was 12 days but not counting the province of New Brunswick, we spent a total of 10 days around Nova Scotia. We hope this itinerary helps. It doesn’t cover all of Nova Scotia, but we don’t feel like we missed out on anything either.
